Field Notes / Jeju

Discover Jeju: what to see and do on the volcanic island

At a glance — Jeju is a volcanic island south of the peninsula, recognized by UNESCO for its geopark, natural heritage, and the culture of the haenyeo divers. Plan 3 to 5 days to combine Hallasan, lava tubes, southern beaches, and Olle trails. Reach it from Seoul-Gimpo (a 1-hour flight) or by ferry from Mokpo or Wando.

Why Jeju, and what to see

The island owes its terrain to past volcanic activity: Mount Hallasan (1,947 m, the country's highest peak) rises at the center, ringed by some 360 secondary cones known as oreums. Jeju holds three UNESCO designations (Biosphere Reserve, World Heritage Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes, Global Geopark), and the haenyeo — free-diving women who harvest shellfish and abalone — are inscribed on the Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Main sights:

  • Hallasan: national park; the Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa trails reach the summit, while Yeongsil and Eorimok offer shorter hikes. A free reservation is mandatory for the routes leading to the crater.
  • Manjanggul: one of the longest lava tubes in the world (over 7 km, with about 1 km open to the public). Cool and dark — bring a jacket.
  • Seongsan Ilchulbong: a tuff crater on the east coast, famous for sunrise views. The climb takes about 20 minutes.
  • Beaches: Hyeopjae and Geumneung (west, white sand), Jungmun (south, bigger waves, resort area).
  • Olle Trails: 21 numbered coastal routes totaling about 437 km, each 10 to 20 km, threading past villages, cliffs, and beaches.
  • Haenyeo culture: the Haenyeo Museum in Hado, with occasional diving demonstrations near Seongsan or around Udo.

When it comes to food: heuk dwaeji (the island's signature grilled black pork barbecue), galchi (cutlassfish), seafood sashimi, and gamgyul (Jeju mandarins, in season from November to February, sometimes paired with orchard visits).

How many days, and where to stay

The island divides roughly into two hubs. Jeju-si (north) is home to the airport and the main city — convenient for short stays, with lively restaurants and quick access to the lava tubes and the west coast. Seogwipo (south) is quieter and milder, well placed for Jungmun, the waterfalls (Cheonjiyeon, Jeongbang), and Hallasan's southern slope.

Suggested durations:

  • 2 days: a quick add-on from Seoul, 2-3 major sights.
  • 3-4 days: the most common stay, enough without rushing.
  • 5 days or more: useful for serious hiking, adding Udo, or slowing down on the beaches.

For a first visit, many travelers combine 1-2 nights in the north and 2-3 nights in the south.

Getting there and getting around

From the mainland. The Seoul-Gimpo (GMP) to Jeju (CJU) route is the busiest air corridor in the world, with departures roughly every 15 minutes. From Busan-Gimhae (PUS), the flight runs about 50 minutes. Several low-cost carriers serve the island (Jeju Air, T'way, Jin Air, Air Busan, and others), with one-way fares often under ₩70,000 (about $50) depending on the season. By ferry, active ports include Mokpo (about 4 h 30), Wando (about 3 h), Yeosu, Goheung-Nokdong, Jindo, and Sacheon-Samcheonpo. The Incheon link has been subject to interruptions — check before you go. Ferries mainly appeal to travelers bringing a vehicle.

On the island. A rental car remains the most flexible option (an International Driving Permit is required — apply for one in your home country before you leave; distances are modest, about 90 km from north to south). Otherwise, two circular bus lines cover the coast: the 201 follows the east coast (Jeju-si – Seongsan – Seogwipo), and the 202 the west (Jeju-si – Gosan – Seogwipo), running every 15 to 30 minutes. Contactless bank card payments (Visa, Mastercard) have been accepted on board since 2025. A scooter suits independent travelers (see the dedicated article).

When to go. Spring (April-May, cherry blossoms and rapeseed flowers) and fall (September-October, clear skies, color on Hallasan, sea still warm) are the most popular windows. Summer is hot and humid, with the rainy season in June-July and typhoon risk in August-September. Winter stays mild compared with the mainland, with possible snow at altitude and ripe citrus in the orchards.

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